Your first day in Paris can be overwhelming. Here’s the best way to spend your first day exploring, eating and getting acclimated to the city of love.
Paris is the perfect “first foreign city” for travelers to dip their toe in the European water. Visitors are initially attracted to Paris for the romance, world-renowned culinary scene and famous sites but they’ll fall in love with the city for its charming simplicity.
I fell in love with the baguette-scented streets, flower-filled gardens, and quaint architecture that’s reminiscent of the city’s complex history. The old-fashioned allure but modern lifestyle is what attracts 35 million tourists (pre-Pandemic) to Paris each year.
The calmness of living a Parisian lifestyle is what makes visiting so beautiful. People take their time there. Parisians seem to relish in each moment of their day rather than rush through it. It’s refreshing, especially when coming from a high-strung city like NYC.
A Day in Paris
8:30 a.m. – Pain Pain Patisserie
A little after 8:30 am, I was able to shake off the jetlag a bit and embrace my first day in dreamy Paris.
Taking a walk after a long flight is essential. And the first Paris must-do on my list, is a walk to a patisserie – a French pastry and cake shop – for a little sugar rush. Perhaps physically counter-intuitive, a brisk walk and morning dessert make perfect mental sense in Paris. Patisseries are the pinnacle of Parisian offerings and a stretch of the legs, fresh air and an éclair indulgence feels like a successful start to the day.
In Paris, there is no pleasure without Pain Pain.
Pain Pain Patisserie has an assorted mix of beautiful pastries, neatly displayed but the éclairs caught my eye first. I opted for the chocolate, although the pistachio one was screaming my name, but I like judging new places by ordering a classic offerings. It helps me understand how they REALLY stack up.
The éclair was fresh, slightly crisp on the outside and airy but chewy on the inside. The chocolate’s sweetness was perfect balanced against the buttery choux pastry.
The almond croissant was among the best I’ve ever had. It’s swirls of buttery dough flaked when I bit into it but morphed into gummy perfection as I chewed. The almond flavor tasted nutty and sweet, not like a fake perfume that scents so many knock-offs. This croissant wasn’t greasy, it was expertly made and encompassed everything a croissant should be.
Patisseries are plentiful and if you’re looking for something specific, often times certain patisseries specialize is one type of pastry, so make sure to Google your craving. Otherwise, pick one at random – you’ll most likely enjoy yourself.
9:15 a.m. – A Panoramic View of Paris
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris, or Sacré-Cœur Basilica is a stunning Roman Catholic church that sits atop the highest point in Paris. The panoramic views are unparalleled if you’re able to make it up the 300 stairs to the very top. There are no elevators.
This view is incredibly exciting, especially if you are a newcomer to Paris. It’s the first time you’ll be able to see the Eiffel Tower soaring up toward the sky and dwarfing the petite Parisian buildings that surround it. It’s a memory that’ll etch into your brain, so really spend a few minutes taking in the view.
Entrance is free and you don’t need to book a time in advance.
10:00 a.m. – Café Tabac Paris
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After stretching my legs, a serious climb and much-needed fresh air, I needed a caffeine spike. Café Tabac is known for it’s perfect people watching and impressive hot chocolate. But, I’ve already had more chocolate than necessary before 10am, so a cappuccino is it!
Their foam art is impressive and fun.
11:30 a.m. – Père Lachaise Cemetery
I know what you’re thinking, “I’m coming to the city of romance and you’re sending me to a graveyard? How dreadful!”
But, hear me out.
Père Lachaise is arguably one of the most famous graveyards in the world and the unique graves range from simple headstones to large, elaborate monuments and chapels. At just over 100 acres, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to (or want to) cover the entirety of it in just part of the day. But I find it’s array of decorative memorials fascinating enough to add it to the list!
You can visit the graves of renowned musicians, artists and royalty including:
- Oscar Wilde, famed playwright and poet
- Frédéric Chopin, leading composer of his era
- Jim Morrison, lead singer for The Doors
- Camille Pissarro, impressionist painter
- Jean de La Fontaine, author who wrote famed fables such as The Tortoise and The Hare
On my first visit to the cemetery in 2010, I kissed Oscar Wilde’s headstone with lipstick, as many did for decades before me. But, in 2011 Wilde’s ancestor’s decided to have the grave cleaned, restored and barricaded with with glass. Grease-based lipstick had began destroying the monument but now when you visit, visitors kiss the glass barricade to keep the tradition going in a less harmful way.
Regardless of your interest in who is buried there, the monuments are fascinating. Père Lachaise is the final resting places for 70,000+ Catholics, Muslims and Jews.
12:30 p.m. – French Onion Soup
Paris can have a slight chill to its breeze any time of year, and I love indulging in a warm bowl of onion soup whenever I’m there. For the newbies, just order the “onion soup” – otherwise you’re your American butchering of their words doesn’t give you away, ordering the “French” onion soup” will. Also keep that in mind when order French fries – just say fries or even better, frites!
I dropped into a cute Brasserie and felt replenished by a cold water, colder beer brothy onion soup. The soup was layered with sliced baguette, a beef broth that tasted slow-simmered for hours and onions that were cooked down slowly then engorged with the broth. The cheese was a shredded pungent Gruyere that melted beautiful, although I wish there was a touch more.
You can trust that onion soup will almost always be a winner in Paris because there’s a lot of competition and no place wants to be singled out as the “bad onion soup” place.
Bistro vs Brasserie
While in Paris you’ll see several little restaurants, some referring to themselves as a Bistro and others proclaiming they’re a Brasserie. While they both serve food and drinks, there are few key differences that set them apart. Know what to expect before you go:
Bistro
- Simple foods, but more variety
- Affordable menu
- Casual, modest setting
Brasserie
- “Brasserie” is French for brewery – so expect beer, they may even brew their own
- Also offers a selection of wines and cocktails
- Elevated setting, think white tablecloths
- Food offering typically consists of just a few classic French dishes – typically beef or seafood done very well
Noteworthy French Onion Soup Spots in Paris:
2:00 p.m. – Notre Dame, a Paris Landmark
After lunch, it’s time for another walk through the charming Paris streets. Cross the Seine River to visit Notre Dame, a Catholic cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary and a pinnacle of Gothic architecture. Originally completed around 1270, the structure has remained a resilient fixture in a complicated Paris history.
Although a fire devastatingly destroyed much of the famed cathedral in 2019, it was also desecrated in the 1790s during the French Revolution but fully restored by 1860s. I’m hoping the current restoration process moves along much quicker than 70 years this time around so its doors can once again be opened to its usual 13 million yearly visitors.
My husband, Brad, had never been inside before but the line to get in was long and we were running late for a dinner reservation, so I told him “we’ll go in next time we’re in Paris – it’s too crowded… it’s not like it’s going anywhere.”
I still haven’t lived that comment down. It still breaks my heart I deprived him of seeing its grandeur with his own eyes.
Let that be a lesson – don’t second guess doing something when you’re there. You’re never sure of anything in life!
The official Notre Dame Restoration website focuses on the estimated completion dates of certain projects. I’m guessing at this point La Sagrada Familia will be opened before Notre Dame.
2:30 p.m. – Flow through Paris along the Seine
Walk west along the Seine River and take in the rolling waters the lovers often flanked on both sides of the river.
Each year in July and August, makeshift beaches and palm trees known as “Paris Plages” (Paris Beaches) are set up along the Seine River for a fun change of scene for the city dwellers.
When in Paris, everyone should spend a little time strolling down the Seine – or taking a riverboat tour, which is very popular.
You can walk 2.7 miles from Notre Dame to get to the Eiffel Tower along the Seine (or grab an Uber which will get you to the tower in about 10 minutes.)
3:30 p.m. – Rosé at the Eiffel Tower
Regardless of how you arrive at the Eiffel Tower, stop into a wine shop and cheese shop (fromagerie) to get a few snacks. On nice weather days, Parisians and tourists alike settle onto the lawns in front of the Eiffel Tower for drinks, picnics and social time.
The late afternoon through the early evening is my favorite time – my own personal tradition – to sip rosé and look up at the stunning tower.
I always have a simple pashmina scarf either around my neck or in my purse when I’m exploring a city. They come in handy when I feel suddenly cold, or need something to sit on for an impromptu picnic like this one.
5:30 p.m. – Arc du Triomphe
If you still have energy, make sure to see the Arc du Triomphe on your way to dinner. It’s one of the most famous monuments in Paris, honoring the lives lost during the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars. Other cities like Pyongyang, North Korea and Mexico City have modeled Arcs after this one.
It sits at the center of a large roundabout, where 12 avenues radiate from it making the top-down view look a bit like a star.
To experience the panoramic view from the top of the Arc, you can visit. An adult ticket is 13 Euros (about $15 USD) and can be purchased in advanced on the Arc de Triomphe website. See the most up-to-date Covid-19 protocols on their site.
8:00 p.m. – Dinner at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte in Paris
It’s true that Europeans eat later than Americans, and while I always try to embrace the local lifestyle while traveling, sometimes it’s too hard to do when jetlagged.
My favorite version of steak frites, that I’ve eaten so far, is at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. Originally named Le Relais de Venise son Entrecôte, its since been reinvented a bit by its owner’s daughter.
The name of the restaurant is kind of a funny story… Le Relais de Venise translates to “The Relay of Venice” – a reference to Venice, Italy. When Paul Gineste de Saurs was opening his restaurant in Paris in 1959, he didn’t want to spend money on unnecessary items. His new restaurant was taking over the space of a former Italian restaurant, and since the neon sign of the Italian restaurant still worked and was already installed, he kept the same name. He only added “Son Entrecôte” which roughly translates to “his steak cut from between the ribs.”
Gineste de Saurs hired his friend as the chef since he liked how he cooked steak and opted for a classic bistro style where waitresses wore a typical black and white bistro outfit. All these years later, in all their locations, the waitresses wear these black and white outfits and the steak is made how his friend cooked it.
What I love about it here is the no-fuss, no-guess menu. A set menu – the same menu as its first day in operation 60 years ago.
The Set Menu at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte:
First Course: Fresh mixed green salad with mustard vinaigrette, topped with walnuts + French bread.
Main Course: Grilled steak, served table-side with golden and crispy French fries and their famous sauce – a mustardy, herb sauce with a touch of sweetness.
Next, comes a SECOND SERVING of steak, fries and mustard sauce! It’s so incredible they serve it twice.
They offer plenty of wines, but I particularly recommend their house white, red or rosé. Their red obviously pairs best with the meal, but one Ladies Night with my girlfriends we vowed to try them all.
The wines differ by location, and for the Paris location I recommend their Reserve du Relais – vin rouge du Tarn, which tastes of cherries and tobacco.
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte has an outrageously compelling dessert menu. But their star dish is their homemade profiteroles. NO meal here is complete without this chocolate tower of heaven. Although their several other desserts always look enticing, I’m loyal to their profiteroles. The profiteroles are balls of French choux pastry filled with vanilla ice cream, drenched in hot chocolate sauce and sprinkled with slivered almonds.
It’s the only way to end your day exploring Paris.
Map for your first day in Paris:
Check out more of my favorite food experiences in Paris and don’t miss the 5 Foods to try in Paris.