Oysters, more than just an aphrodisiac, are my love language.
One hazy, brisk San Francisco morning, I was on a quest for fresh seafood, specifically oysters, and cold beer.
I never wait in line to eat at a restaurant; I always shrug it off and vow to come back when the place is less busy. But this time was different.
In one hand I held my coffee and in the other I held my new husband’s hand. Never in my wildest dreams did I expect my honeymoon to look like this – standing on a street corner in the cold November rain, surrounded by grey buildings and traffic-ridden streets. I had always expected pina coladas and aqua waters. But the older I got and the more food obsessed I became, the idea of having two weeks off of work to explore ALL THE FOOD made the decision easy.
So here we were, in a line that gathered down the block, huddled over our steamy coffees. We had been waiting an hour so far for two of the 18 barstool seats at the famous hole in the wall, Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco.
Made famous by their extremely fresh and refreshingly simple dishes and hyped up by the late Anthony Bourdain, Swan Oyster Depot is a true diamond in the rough – even if it’s still rough around the edges.
When our names were called I felt like we were the chosen ones.
Vibe
We cozied into our barstools, stuffing our wet rain gear down by our legs and the first thing I noticed was how relaxed the men behind the counter were. With a line down the block outside, I fully expected them to be all business; taking orders, placing dishes now, rushing bills out to customers but it was the complete opposite. Maybe it’s the New York City in me to expect an intense hustle. The man behind the counter taking care of our section of the bar asked what we liked before he told us what their daily catch was – clearly interested in making sure we had the best possible experience.
I was there for their famed “Chrysanthemum” dish – a plate of Dungeness Crab legs organized in a way that when the dish is presented it looks faintly like a chrysanthemum flower. But to my horror, they were out of the seasonal Dungeness Crab. FYI, Dungeness Crab season is from November – June.
We decided to let him choose our meal – we just asked for the freshest offerings.
Food (especially my Oysters!)
- New England clam chowder
- Shrimp cocktail
- Oysters
- Fresh local Sourdough
- 2 cold Anchor Steam beers from the tap
…An actual brunch of champions.
New England Clam Chowder
Although it looked heavy, it was light – maybe more brothy than creamy, with loads of fresh clams.
Shrimp Cocktail
I trust any restaurant that serves seafood with a fresh bowl of lemon wedges – it instantly transports me back to Greece where ALL meals seem to be accompanied by a bowl of lemon wedges. The shrimp were plump, chilled with a hint of the sea – a natural salt that only seafood can offer. The texture had that crispness, indicative of a properly cooked fresh shrimp. I asked for extra hot horseradish with the cocktail sauce.
Oysters
A half dozen of my favorite Kumamotos offered the perfect briney bite and seemed fresher than anything I could get in NYC. Their sherry vinegar, a dab of horseradish and a squeeze of lemon are always how I set up my oyster slurps. Pure perfection.
Next Time…
I don’t like to say I live with regrets – but I feel like my meal was a timid, introductory level of what this spot can deliver. It wasn’t until my way out I noticed chopsticks being laid out for another pair at the bar. Strange – I didn’t see anything that would require the use of chopsticks. But apparently there is a “Secret” menu for locals with assortments of fresh sashimi and uni, octopus salad and crab backs.
Next time I’m there… I’m telling them to throw their wildest creations at me.
Swan Oyster Depot
1517 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109
Monday – Saturday 10:30am – 5:30pm
Closed Sundays