Where to find the best food and drinks in Ari, Bangkok.
The first thing you notice when you arrive in Ari, a small neighborhood in Bangkok, is the splash of pink food stands lining the sidewalks.
Ari is little like what I image a baby Brooklyn to be. The food scene, the craft beer, the fashion all starting to find it’s way into the local papers. It’s not a melting pot like Brooklyn yet; there are no signs of westerners, or Farangs, as the Thai people call us. Just interesting, young entrepreneurs figuring out what trendy bar, café, shop or restaurant to bring to their neighborhood next.
We moved into our Airbnb, in the Nobel Red high rise, in Ari and treated the home and neighborhood like our own. Our incredible Airbnb apartment, which we paid about ~$40 US Dollars per night for, offered us a stunning and quiet rooftop pool. Perfect for a morning swim before grabbing a coffee and fresh papaya.
Coffee in Ari
But, first… coffee. Right? I can, but don’t like to, start my day without one. And although the neighborhood offers several cute, eclectic cafes we found ourselves frequenting the Bangkok Espresso Bar the most. Established in 2012, Bangkok Espresso Bar served up an icy Americano which was so powerful I could nurse it for an hour. The jolt from their espresso started off our daily adventure with a lot of energy. Beyond the coffee, I often woke up and walked down the street and settled into my favorite window to read and people watch with a warm cappuccino.
Breakfast in Ari
Breakfast in Ari is best spent grabbing assorted fresh fruit from street vendors. Typically packaged in a plastic cup with a fork tied by rubber band. But on those days you feel like a little something special, Witty Ville Scones is the place to be. One of the smallest little spots I’ve ever been to, with only standing room to order. Their scones come in a number of flavors – my two favorites were apricot and matcha. Their orange rosemary pound cake and lemon curd filled pastries always make it difficult to not go overboard.
Lunch in Ari
Khao Soi, a Northern Thai dish is one of my all time favorite Thai meals. A creamy, spicy, sweet curry is served with plenty of flat noodles and your choice of protein. It’s typically served with sides of fresh sliced red onions, pickled cabbage, fresh cabbage and bean sprouts. The best versions of this dish are served with crunchy Chinese noodles. There’s a little stand in Ari, a permanent street vendor, in a hidden alley way, that always has a long line. And there’s a reason. Their Khao Soi is served with spiced tofu and they seat you at one of their benches draped in colorful plastic tablecloths in the middle of the sidewalk. It doesn’t get more authentic than this.
A Snack in Ari
Kanom Krok is little known sweet and savory Thai dessert, or in this case, a snack. A mixture of blended jasmine rice and coconut milk are poured into a piping hot griddle forming the “shell” of the kanom krok. Additional blended coconut milk is poured into the center to add a gooey filling. Each is sprinkled with scallions, taro root or corn kernels.
My favorite were scallion and corn – most vendors let you “mix” so you can get a few of each kind to try. The chewy, milky texture encompassed with a lightly crisp outer layer is what make this treat so good.
Pre-Dinner Beer in Ari
One of the best spots in Ari for craft beer is O’Glee. It’s the best neighborhood beer hangout with a rotating draft and an abundance of small plates and full meals. The owners who are super friendly, are usually there and are always quick to ask about their customer’s beer preferences. We were on the hunt for Thai beer, beyond Singha and Chang and we were given an incredible Black IPA by Eleventh Fort.
Let me be very clear – there is a huge craft beer scene in Thailand, but due to government restrictions most “Thai” beers are produced by Thai people in Cambodia and brought back to Thailand. Eleventh Fort deems themselves “gypsy” brewers, which means they do not have their own brewery. Instead, they will use other breweries in other places to brew their own beer. Finding Thai craft beer is a little bit of “gray area.”
Back to O’Glee… when we told the owners we’d be in the neighborhood for a while, they asked what we liked and had that type of beer on tap the next time we walked in. The customer base is all local and they have plenty of suggestions for other places to eat or drink in the area.
Dinner in Ari
Earning Michelin Bib Gourmond status, Lay Lao is a Thai eatery focusing on dishes from Thailand’s northeastern province, Isan. The heat of Isan food is another level, so come prepared to sweat.
Acting as the American version of bread and butter, but much healthier, fresh carrot sticks, cabbage and green beans are served when you arrive. Order cold beers as soon as your arrive – you’ll be swapping between serious sips of beer and water throughout your meal to ease your mouth. But this spot is the real definition of hurts so good.
Our Order
- Crispy Tofu Salad
- Papaya Salad
- Vegetable Fried Rice
- Crab Curry
We started with a Crispy Tofu Salad which proved to be the freshest tofu I’ve ever eaten. I always have high hopes that “crispy tofu” will actually be… crispy and not deflate as I take a bite. This place is the real deal in the sense that their tofu is so high quality. It can actually stand up to being fried and treated as a “real” protein. Draped in a spicy, sweet and tangy dressing and topped with roasted Thai chilies.
We ordered Vegetable Fried Rice – a seemingly boring choice – but a mild dish needed to balance our other orders.
Finally we feasted on a deconstructed, velvety Crab Curry – a true gem in the Ari, Bangkok food scene.
Dessert in Ari
On hot, humid Thai nights, I love a cool lick of ice cream. Empty Tasty twirls out a charcoal version of tangy yogurt. When you’re new to the Thai cooking scene, your stomach can go through something called “Bangkok Belly.” It’s basically your stomach adjusting to the heat, different preparations and sometimes the quality of water ingredients are washed in. A cold charcoal yogurt always made me feel better.
Cocktails
And finally, as if you haven’t already eaten your way through this small neighborhood like a champ, we end with a nightcap. Or several. Frank Mansion is a rooftop bar rucked away on the 4th floor of the popular A One Food court. Quiet hidden, it’s one of the best kept secrets in Ari, but we were told by our friends at O’Glee where it is and when to visit. A swanky, dimly lit bar with imaginative dishes and live music on Saturdays, Frank’s Mansion transported me right back to any NYC speakeasy. We took two bar seats so we could watch the cocktail crafters work their magic as we decided on our drinks. Embarrassingly, we ordered almost the entire menu. But felt no shame.
Phantom Punch
The Black Dahlia
JFK
Dorothy
Rebel without a Cause
We ended with another Black Dahlia because we loved its flavor so much.
With bellies and slightly buzzed our Ari, Bangkok food tour ends here.
Cheers!