I’m always on a mission to find Bangkok’s best restaurants.
Wandering down a small residential street in Northeastern Bangkok, I stumbled upon Hanazen.
I’d like to say it’s rare that I’d fly to the other side of the world for a meal. But here, in front of me stood a small, unassuming Japanese restaurant worthy of that flight.
I didn’t know it yet, of course. But I started to realize it when I ordered Sake.
Setting
As soon as we sat down we were given steamed washcloths to prepare our hands for our meal. The restaurant was dimly lit with mismatched furniture. Parts of the walls we adorned with paintings and fabrics while other parts revealed old bricks. Each table had their own dim light where guests could decide whether to keep it on or not. I felt like I was at a hole in the wall spot in Brooklyn.
Hanazen was quiet, despite the number of customers. They spaced all the guests out. No one was seated next to each other until the restaurant began to fill up. Everyone was calm, relaxed and romantic. I think it’s the best date spot in Bangkok.
We spent hours, sipping, eating and ordering more. We felt so welcomed and never rushed. The staff didn’t even raise an eyebrow when we asked to see the drink lists again.
Drinks
After our steamed washcloths, were given different booklets – one for beer, one for sake, one of scotch, wine, etc. These were their Japanese liquor offerings and each item had a breakdown of what to expect.
Next, a smiling waiter came over with a large tray of eclectic sake cups and told us to choose ours for the night. I loved this unique gesture.
Throughout our meal we tried several different sakes – some sweet, some dry, some unfiltered. Then we moved on to scotch.
We spent hours, sipping, eating, then ordering more. We felt so welcomed and never rushed. The staff didn’t even raise an eyebrow when we asked to see the drink lists again.
Food
Buckle up, there’s a lot.
Grilled Scallop with Crab Butter
A perfectly seared large scallop presented in a scallop shell. One comes in an order for just under $5 USD. The plump scallop seems to then be broiled with herbs and placed in a bed of “crab butter” and topped with fresh scallions. This is the only way to start the meal at Hanazen.
Chicken Wing Gyoza
A traditional pork gyoza filling is stuffed into a chicken wing. With a limit on the amount you can order – one piece comes in an order – this seems to be one of the most popular appetizers at Hanazen. A light, crispy skin encompasses tender chicken meat and an herbal pork filling. There is an option to have them melt cheese over the wing, but we opted for it plain.
Miso Soup
If you’ve had one miso soup, you’ve had them all, right? Wrong. I can always tell the difference between a fresh, rich miso soup and one that’s an afterthought to my sushi meal. I never realized miso soup could be so flavorful. This warming soup hydrated me and readied my stomach for the next courses.
Tuna Sashimi Rice Bowl
We ordered a small version of a soy-marinated tuna rice bowl. The rice was soft, perfectly warm and lightly seasoned to perfection. The tuna was fresh and high quality, I could tell by its mild flavor and tenderness.
Uni
We ordered sea urchin by the piece and it tasted as if it were flown in from Japan everyday. The blast of flavor always makes it so less is more for me. Incredibly fresh, light, airy and masterfully presented.
Cold Udon with Sesame Sauce
This deconstructed dish was one of my favorites in part because of the way it was served. The noodles, of course, had that incredibly soft and chewy texture I adore in an udon noodle. These noodles were chilled and served with a light, vingery and potent sesame sauce. Hanazen boasts their homemade food, and the sesame sauce in particular felt like a Japanese grandmother had made it. The recipe felt as if it had been perfected over generations. Brad and I were served our own mini bowls, to create our perfect noodle bites in. I’d take a few udon noodle, spoon a little bit of sesame sauce and sprinkle in my desired amount of sesame seeds, wasabi and fresh grated ginger. Doing it this way allowed me to experience a slightly different flavor combo each time.
Salt-Grilled Yellowtail – My Favorite Hanazen Dish
This dish so phenomenal, I ordered a second one. I don’t think I’ve ever gone to a restaurant and thought a dish was SO incredible that I ordered a second one in the same seating. Maybe the next time I visited I know I’d order it. I don’t recall another time I’ve had a piece of fish so expertly grilled, this salt-grilled Yellowtail was cooked so magnificently. The fish is grilled skin-side down and served skin side up. This allows the fat from the skin to trickle into the meat of the fish adding a flavor and butter finish to each bite. The Yellowtail is served with bright purple Shibazuke – a Kyoto favorite – which is pickled eggplant with shisho and ginger. The purple eggplant skin gives it its incredible color. The dish is only served with a wedge of lemon and the acidity brightens all of its flavors.
This dish alone makes Hanazen one of Bangkok’s best restaurants.
Salmon Sashimi Three Ways
A Hanazen specialty, a trio of salmon sashimi prepared 3 ways, this dish was on almost every table around us. The first is served with pickled vegetables, the next with different types of fish roe and the last is marinated in, I believe, soy and mirin. Each stand on its own but all in a wonderful harmony of flavor.
Green Tea Ice Cream
Finally our meal came to a refreshing close. Hanazen’s Green Tea Ice Cream is herbal, flowery and creamy. We paired it with a warm Sake. Warm and cool was the perfect way to end our feast.
Their menu is always changing so check out their Facebook page to see what they’re serving.
Hanazen isn’t a typical, run of the mill sushi or ramen spot. Instead, it seems they create and perfect recipes based on the freshest ingredients available. Their flavors are unique and their recipes are creative and well executed. Hanazen is one of the best restaurants in Bangkok’s Ari neighborhood – maybe even one of the best Japanese spots in Bangkok.
For an authentic Thai restaurant that I deem one of Bangkok’s Best Restaurants, check out Soei.